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© Knitty 2002-2006. All rights reserved. Unauthorized reproduction prohibited. This means you.

 


katecreaturesboogie timeknecklacebamboozellenamastebest friend
 forecasttempting IIfestivetubeyblanche-neigebristowcheesy puffs
bobbliciouschaosblupomatomusthujamarleyspikedanica
urban rustic glovesreal stocking capmrs beetonlayersstarsky
kpixie


by Axelle de Sauveterre

I have a confession to make. I love jackets. Love them. One may even truthfully say that I have a jacket fetish. Jackets are often the casual fashionista's signature piece -- the sort of garment that can be worn to a dinner or even the boardroom, but which instantly elevates the elegance quotient of a tank top and a pair of favorite jeans.

This fitted cashmere beaded jacket is luxury in three dimensions. Although Blanche-Neige (pronounced blahnsh-nehzh) in French means "Snow White", this design was heavily influenced less by a fairy tale princess than by daydreams of Alpine ski resorts, with lingering whiffs of glamourous perfume in the frosty air and the promise of intimate dinners by candlelight at the lodge. But whatever the inspiration, Blanche-Neige looks at home anywhere from the snow-covered valley to the wintry metropolis.

The overall geometric pattern of the jacket is a simple repeat of stockinette and moss stitch rows that criss-cross like ski tracks on fresh snow. The wide, embellished border is created by simply changing from the main colour yarn to an eyelash yarn in a contrasting colour. Glass beads are discreetly added for a touch of glam, like frozen dewdrops clinging to winter branches.

model: Nathalie B. photos: Axelle de Sauveterre
SIZE
XS [S, M, L, XL, XXL] (shown in size S)
 
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Chest: 34 [36, 38, 40, 44, 48] inches
Length: 21.5 [21.5, 21.5, 22.5, 22.5, 22.5] inches (measured from back neck to bottom, not including collar)
 

MATERIALS

[MC] A.L. de Sauveterre Mont Blanc; [100% cashmere; 200 yds/180 m per skein]; color: Crème Fraiche; 6[6, 7, 7, 8, 9] skeins
[CC] Habu Textiles A-27 1/1.5 poly moire; [100% polyester; 23 yds/20m per ball] ; color: #21; 4[4, 4, 5, 6, 6] balls

1 set US #3/3.25mm needles
1 crochet hook, 14 steel/0.6mm or smaller
Stitch markers
Tapestry needle
Approx 675[700, 750, 800, 875, 925] 6mm/Size E glass beads in assorted colors
The beads used for the sample pictured are an assortment called "Sand Castles" by Jubili Beads & Yarns.
GAUGE
28 sts/40 rows = 4 inches in stockinette st

 

PATTERN NOTES

[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations can be found here]

When working the border of this jacket, beads will be knit into the garment. When working a beaded row, beads should be staggered to achieve a random, "organic" appearance, so there is no set formula for determining bead placement. However, working 4 to 6 sts between beads may be a good general guideline.

Place beads on stitches as follows:
Sl crochet hook through eye of bead. Use crochet hook to pick up next st from left needle, and draw st through eye of bead. Place beaded st on right needle, then proceed to work next st.

I recommend using this method for adding beads rather than methods that involve threading beads prior to knitting, because (1) it avoids abrading the delicate cashmere fibers with unnecessary friction, and (2) it allows you to choose and place the colors of your beads as you go along.

Border Pattern:
(Even-numbered rows are RS rows, odd-numbered rows are WS rows.)
Rows 1-5: Using MC, k all sts.
Rows 6-11: Using CC, k all sts.
Rows 12, 14 [RS]: Using MC, k all sts.
Rows 13, 15 [WS]: P all sts.
Rows 16-18: Cont in stockinette st, placing beads randomly (see above for directions on placing beads).
Rows 19, 21 [WS]: P all sts.
Rows 20, 22 [RS]: Work in stockinette st, placing beads randomly.
Rows 23-27: Cont in stockinette st.
Rows 28-33: Work in Seed Stitch.

Seed Stitch (When worked over an even number of sts):
Row 1 [RS]: [K1, p1] to end.
Row 2 [WS]: [P1, k1] to end.
Repeat these 2 rows for Seed Stitch.

Seed Stitch (When worked over an odd number of sts):
Row 1: [K1, p1] to last st, k1.
Every row is the same.
DIRECTIONS

Back
Using MC, CO 119 [126, 133, 140, 154, 168] sts.

Work through all rows of Border Pattern.

Work 2 rows in stockinette st.

Begin working Chart A, ending with st no. 7[14, 21, 28, 14, 28].

Work 5[5, 5, 5, 9, 9] more row(s) in patt.

Next Row [RS]: K1, k2tog, work in patt as set to last 3 sts, ssk, k1.

Work 5 rows in patt as set.

Repeat these 6 rows 5 times more. 107[114, 121, 128, 142, 156] sts rem.

Next Row [RS]: K1, m1, work in patt as set to last st, m1, k1.

Work 5 rows in patt as set.

Repeat these 6 rows 5 times more. 119 [126, 133, 140, 154, 168] sts.

Cont in patt as set until work measures 12.5[12.5, 12.5, 12.5, 13.5, 13.5] inches, ending with a WS row.

Shape Armholes:
BO 5[7, 9, 10, 12, 14] sts at beg of next 2 rows. 109[112, 115, 120, 130, 140] sts rem.

Next Row [RS]: K1, k2tog, work in patt as set to last 3 sts, ssk, k1.
Work 1 row in patt as set.
Repeat these 2 rows 4[6, 7, 8, 10, 13] times more. 99[98, 99, 102, 108, 112] sts rem.

Cont in patt as set until work measures 21[21, 21, 21, 22, 22] inches, ending with a WS row.

BO 4 sts at beg of next 2 rows.
BO 5 sts at beg of next 4 rows.
BO rem 71[70, 71, 74, 80, 84] sts.

Left Front
Using MC, CO 59[63, 66, 70, 77, 84] sts.
Work Rows 1-12 of Border Pattern.
Next Row (Row 13 of Border Pattern)[WS]: BO 21 sts, p to end. 38[42, 45, 49, 56, 63] sts rem.
Cont in Border Pattern until all rows have been worked.

Work 2 rows in stockinette st.

Begin working Chart A, ending with st no. 10[14, 17, 21, 28, 7].
Work 5[5, 5, 5, 9, 9] more row(s) in patt.

Next Row [RS]: K1, k2tog, work in patt as set to end.
Work 5 rows in patt as set.
Repeat these 6 rows 5 times more. 32[36, 39, 43, 50, 57] sts rem.

Next Row [RS]: K1, m1, work in patt as set end.
Work 5 rows in patt as set.
Repeat these 6 rows 5 times more. 38[42, 45, 49, 56, 63] sts.

Cont in patt as set until work measures 12.5[12.5, 12.5, 12.5, 13.5, 13.5] inches, ending with a WS row.

Shape Armhole:
BO 5[7, 9, 10, 12, 14] sts, work in patt as set to end. 33[35, 36, 39, 44, 49] sts rem.
Work 1 row in patt as set.

Next Row [RS]: K1, k2tog, work in patt as set to end.
Work 1 row in patt as set.
Repeat these 2 rows 4[6, 7, 8, 10, 13] times more. 28[28, 28, 30, 33, 35] sts rem.

Cont in patt as set until work measures 18[18, 18, 18, 19, 19] inches, ending with a RS row.

Next Row [WS]: BO 2[2, 2, 3, 5, 7] sts, work in patt as set to end. 26[26, 26, 27, 28, 28] sts rem.

Next Row [RS]: Work in patt to last 3 sts, ssk, k1.
Work 1 row in patt as set.
Repeat these 2 rows 11[11, 11, 12, 13, 13] times more. 14 sts rem.

Cont in patt as set until work measures 21[21, 21, 21, 22, 22] inches, ending with a WS row.

BO 4 sts at beg of next row. Work 1 row in patt as set.
BO 5 sts at beg of next row. Work 1 row in patt as set.
BO rem 5 sts.

Right Front
Using MC, CO 59[63, 66, 70, 77, 84] sts.
Work Rows 1-13 of Border Pattern.

Next Row (Row 14 of Border Pattern)[RS]: BO 21 sts, k to end. 38[42, 45, 49, 56, 63] sts rem.
Cont in Border Pattern until all rows have been worked.

Work 2 rows in stockinette st.

Begin working Chart A, ending with st no. 10[14, 17, 21, 28, 7].
Work 5[5, 5, 5, 9, 9] more row(s) in patt.

Next Row [RS]: Work in patt as set to last 3 sts, ssk, k1.
Work 5 rows in patt as set.
Repeat these 6 rows 5 times more. 32[36, 39, 43, 50, 57] sts rem.

Next Row [RS]: Work in patt as set to last st, m1, k1.
Work 5 rows in patt as set.
Repeat these 6 rows 5 times more. 38[42, 45, 49, 56, 63] sts.

Cont in patt as set until work measures 12.5[12.5, 12.5, 12.5, 13.5, 13.5] inches, ending with a RS row.

Shape Armhole:
BO 5[7, 9, 10, 12, 14] sts, work in patt as set to end. 33[35, 36, 39, 44, 49] sts rem.

Next Row [RS]: Work in patt as set to last 3 sts, ssk, k1.
Work 1 row in patt as set.
Repeat these 2 rows 4[6, 7, 8, 10, 13] times more. 28[28, 28, 30, 33, 35] sts rem.

Cont in patt as set until work measures 18[18, 18, 18, 19, 19] inches, ending with a WS row.

Next Row [RS]: BO 2[2, 2, 3, 5, 7] sts, work in patt as set to end. 26[26, 26, 27, 28, 28] sts rem.
Work 1 row in pat as set.

Next Row [RS]: K1, k2tog, work in patt as set to end.
Work 1 row in patt as set.
Repeat these 2 rows 11[11, 11, 12, 13, 13] times more. 14 sts rem.

Cont in patt as set until work measures 21[21, 21, 21, 22, 22] inches, ending with a RS row.

BO 4 sts at beg of next row. Work 1 row in patt as set.
BO 5 sts at beg of next row. Work 1 row in patt as set.
BO rem 5 sts.

Sleeves (Make 2)
Using MC, CO 64[64, 64, 64, 64, 70] sts.
Work through all rows of Border Pattern.
Work 2 rows in stockinette st.
Begin working Chart A, ending with st no. 8[8, 8, 8, 8, 14].
Work 1 more row in patt.

Increase Row [RS]: K1, m1, work in patt as set to last st, m1, k1.
Work 5 rows in patt as set.
Repeat these 6 rows 20[20, 20, 20, 17, 22] times more. 106[106, 106, 106, 100, 116] sts.

Size XL Only:
Work Increase Row. Work 3 rows in patt as set.
Repeat these 4 rows 5 times more. 112 sts.

All Sizes:
Cont in patt as set until work measures 17[17, 17.5, 17.5, 18, 18.5] inches, or desired length, ending with a WS row.

Shape Sleeve Cap:
BO 5[7, 9, 10, 12, 14] sts at beg of next 2 rows, working in patt as set. 96[92, 88, 86, 88, 88] sts rem.

Decrease Row [RS]: K1, k2tog, work in patt as set to last 3 sts, ssk, k1.
Work 1 row in patt as set.
Repeat these 2 rows 7[5, 5, 4, 5, 5] times more. 80[80, 76, 76, 76, 76] sts rem.

Work Decrease Row.
Work 3 rows in patt as set.
Repeat these 4 rows 3[5, 6, 7, 6, 6] times more. 72[68, 62, 60, 62, 62] sts rem.

Work Decrease Row.
Work 1 row in patt as set.
Repeat these 2 rows 7[5, 4, 3, 4, 4] times more. 56[56, 52, 52, 52, 52] sts rem.

Work Decrease Row as above.
Next Row [WS]: P1, p2tog tbl, work in patt as set to last 3 sts, p2tog, p1.
Repeat these 2 rows 3[3, 2, 2, 2, 2] times more. 40 sts rem.

BO 5 sts at beg of next 4 rows.
BO rem 20 sts.
 
FINISHING

Sew fronts to back at shoulders.

Collar and Front Borders
Using MC, with RS facing and beg at right front edge above bound-off lower border sts, pick up and k 3 sts for every 4 rows along right front edge, place marker, pick up and k 1 st in each bound off st and each row along right neckline edge, to center back.

Work right collar and front border as follows, working every RS row in this way:
Work to st before marker, kfb, kfb, work to end. These increases will form a mitered corner where the collar and front border meet.
Row 1 [WS]: K1, m1, work in Seed Stitch to last st, m1, k1.
Rows 2-6: Work in Seed Stitch.
Rows 7-11: Work in stockinette st.
Rows 12, 14 [RS]: Work in stockinette st, placing beads randomly.
Rows 13, 15 [WS]: P all sts.
Rows 16-18: Cont in stockinette st, placing beads randomly.
Rows 19-22: Cont in stockinette st.
Rows 23-28: Using CC, k all sts.
Row 22 [RS]: Using MC, k all sts.
Row 23 [WS]: K to end, CO 8 sts. (This forms a small extension which will be sewn along the front edge of the lower border.)
Work 4 more rows in garter st. Loosely BO all sts purlwise.

Using MC, with RS facing and beg at center back neck, pick up and k 1 st in each bound off st and each row along left neckline edge, place marker, pick up and k 3 sts for every 4 rows along left front edge.
Work Rows 1-21 as for right collar and front border.
Row 22 [RS]: Using MC, k to end, CO 8 sts.
Work 5 more rows in garter st. Loosely BO all sts purlwise.

Block pieces as desired.
Sew collar together at center back.
Sew lower edges of front borders to bound off sts of lower borders on jacket fronts. Sew extensions to front edges of lower borders.
Sew sleeves into armholes. Sew sleeve and side seams.
Weave in ends.

This jacket is intended to be worn open, without a closure. If desired, a zipper may be sewn in.

Care tips for your handknit cashmere jacket:
To bring out the "bloom" in your cashmere, when your jacket is finished -- and ONLY while completely dry -- place it in a lingerie bag or sealed pillow case and run it through the clothes dryer on low to medium heat for 4 to 5 minutes. The cashmere plies fluff up and feel even softer than ever.

Contrary to popular belief, dry cleaning can prove harsh to cashmere fibers. For best results, always gently hand wash your cashmere in cold water with a mild detergent. (Try a few drops of Dawn dishwashing liquid. This specific brand works wonders at lifting grease from cashmere fibers.)
ABOUT THE DESIGNER

Axelle de Sauveterre bashfully admits to a wardrobe packed to the hinges with jackets (though she swears there is always room for more).

Her hand-painted cashmere and other yarns can be found here and on her blog, Two Pointy Sticks.
Pattern & images © 2005 Axelle de Sauveterre. Contact Axelle